The River Kwai

We got a bus from Bangkok to Kanchanaburi - a town on the River Kwai, where the infamous bridge over the River Kwai is located. On my travels so far, I had heard very bad things about buses in Thailand, but from this experience, which was absolutely fine, even comfortable, I have decided that everyone who told me such things is either a liar or an idiot.

When we arrived, we then got what Jack called a "chicken bus" to the guesthouse. This was just an open backed truck where you all sit in the back on benches down the side. Otherwise known as "songthaew".

Our guest house was a cabin floating on the River Kwai and tied to the bank with a bit of rope. If that wasn't cool enough, I managed to find mashed potato on the menu - something that excited me immensely, as I hadn't had this since I left home. I wasn't sure if it would turn out to be vaguely edible, but I couldn't resist it, and when it came it was the creamiest, fluffiest mash as any other.

In the afternoon we went on a boat tour of Kanchanaburi. The boat was like a long flattened canoe with a motor. We were all expecting it to meander gentle along the river, but that was not to be. As soon as we pulled away from the bank, the boat sped along so fast we had to hold on to our clothes to make sure they were blown off us! It was crazy, but lots of fun. Amongst the things we zoomed past were lots of houses (yes entire, large houses) being pulled down the river by little boats. It seemed to be a normal thing here, but to me it was the most bizarre thing ever! One even had a disco on it!

First stop on the boat trip was the Jeath war museum. Kanchanaburi was was home to a Japanese POW camp for the workers of the Death Railway, connecting the Japanese army to Burma and India. It is also, as mentioned above, where the railway bridge over the River Kwai, that the allies notably destroyed, is located. 100,000 Asians and 16,000 POW's died building the Death Railway. The Jeath Museum contains photos and paintings of the camp and the building of the railway, all by POW's, and newspaper clippings, relating to the POW's who were held in the camp here. I found the paintings the most fascinating, as unlike the photos, which can be limited, they show how things were through the eyes of the prisoners, conveying their emotion more than a camera ever could.

The second stop was less depressing. It was the Kapoon Cave Temple. On the path to this temple were child monks, as young as about seven, with a big fish bowl collecting caterpillars. When you reach the temple, you have to climb down a ladder to get inside, as it is all underground in a claustrophobic, dripping, sauna-like cave made of limestone. Inside the cave were loads of young girls, all dressed in white, about the same age as the novice monks on the path, who followed us around, giggling. The cave was a series of small rooms containing all different gold statues of Buddha, it wasn't very big, but after ten minutes down there we couldn't take the heat anymore and desperately needed to escape into the fresh air. One thing I did manage to note before almost passing out, was how different the Thai Buddha looks to the Chinese Buddha! Like a totally different guy....

Third and final stop on this boat trip was the infamous bridge over the River Kwai. In fitting with the tone of this tourist attraction, as we pulled up by the shore, we noticed lots of people crowded round on the other side of the river. As we looked further at the commotion we noticed that amongst these people were a LOT of policemen. We soon realised why. Floating down the river, right by that point was a dead body. We never heard what had happened.

Slightly bewildered, we got out the boat and walked to the bridge above. The railway line across the bridge is still in use to day, however, being Thailand we were allowed to sit in the middle of it and take photos. Rather to my amusement, I noticed a couple place their baby in the middle of the train tracks to take photos. Soon after a security guard came out, blowing his whistle and waving a stick, then we heard the horn of the train. Despite the fact that there was a train a few metres away blowing its horn at people to get out the way, some tourists just didn't seem to have any interest in moving, so it took about ten minutes for the train to pass. As it did so a young boy waved out the window at me. As I waved back he giggled and ducked out of sight.

That evening I went for a walk around town. One of the main sights is the war cemetery - it consists of mostly foreigners though because the Thais didn't get too involved with the war, as they are happy to recall. One of the other main things I noticed was the number of dogs everywhere! As I walked there were many shops selling the beautiful tradition Thai dancing costume. There weren't really any shops for tourist, mostly practical kind of shops, such as tailors or mechanics. Though lots of places were selling offerings, ready for the Thai new year.

After dinner that night, we all went to a really chilled out bar called the Irish Gecko. When they ran out of what we wanted to drink, they hopped on a bike to 7-11 to buy it for us! The lady owner was really funny, completely wasted, yet still beating us all at pool. We played a drinking game called Ring of Fire (which always ends in disaster for someone) and poor Jack got destroyed. By the end of the night, he was wearing the triangle you use for setting up the balls in pool as a hat.

The following day (most of us feeling a bit worse for wear) we went to nearby Erawan National Park. Along the road there were more butterflies then I have ever seen in my life, just flitting about - it was beautiful. Amongst the butterflies were campaigning pick-up trucks with posters and megaphones for the coming up election.

When we arrived at the National Park we noticed that there were two different prices - local and foreigner. How cheeky!

We got out the car by a big puddle with hundreds and hundreds of butterflies crowded on top of it, drinking. It was one of the most amazing things I have ever seen. I got up so close that I could stick my hand amongst them and they just didn't care in the slightest. There were butterflies all over the park, but this was incredible.

The attraction of the national park is a 7 tier waterfall. As a bid to prevent littering (and thankfully one that works), you can't take any food or drink to the waterfall, except water, which you must check in at the entrance and leave a deposit to make sure you bring the bottles back out.

At the second tier of the waterfall we went swimming. There were hardly any people there and it was so beautiful. The water was an amazing azure colour with lush green trees growing all around. In the water were hudreds of fish that, if you kept still, would come and nibble away at you. It was so peaceful and relaxing there, we just floated around in the water and sat on the rocks, letting the waterfall above splash down onto us.

Then we climbed up all seven tiers. Stunning, but exhausting. In all the pools on the way up, local people played in the water. Boys swung from vines into the pools, while their parents lay on mats in the shade. Right at the top I got attacked by biting flies. Eurgh. So we went back down and by that point we were ravenous so ate packet after packet of crisps for lunch.

That night we went to the Kanchanaburi night market. It was so chilled out compared to what I had expected! Absolutely no pestering whatsoever! Here I had a dinner of corn on the cob with lashings of butter and salt...and a rather interesting sweet waffle, with sweetcorn in! It actually tasted great though. The other non-vegetarians went to a Korean barbeque - where you choose as much food as you want from a buffet and then cook it yourself on a little round metal cooker on top of coals.

First Encounter with Bangkok

The first thing I thought when I arrived in Bangkok, was where were all the people? I had expected crazy hassle every step I took, yet when I got to the airport not even one person offered me a taxi and walking down the streets I was completely left to myself. Already this place had exceeded my expectations.

Though talking of taxis - my first encounter with one was somewhat interesting. For starters the taxi licence had the photo of a man on it, when the driver was clearly a very different female - perhaps the drivers mother I thought at first? But then decided it was probably, actually a completely random person. And then the driver got completely lost. As I had asked her to use the meter, at first I thought this was a scam to stretch the journey out and make me pay extra, but on arrival she knocked the price down 50% so I guess she genuinely didn't know the way to one of the most famous streets in Thailand, where I was going. It was slightly worrying when she stopped in the middle of the highway and ran out of the car to hail down other taxis to ask for directions, but I got there in one piece in the end!

Another assumption I had made about Thailand from things I had been told was how spicy the food would be, so I went to dinner expecting the worst, but it wasn't in the slightest bit spicy.... I did however eat egg for the first time! Wasn't so bad at all!

After dinner we went to the all famous Khao San Road - featured in the Beach and popular with backpackers. I thought I would hate it here but it was great! You could by really realistic fake driving licences, presscards, oxford or "lerverpool" degrees! I am definitely getting on of each when I go back there! The streets were lined with people trying to get you into their bars with signs saying things such as "Very Strong Cocktails - we don't check ID". However probably the best part of it was a stage featuring an excellent Elvis impersonator - the best I've ever seen, complete with insane backing dancers....the thing was though, the person playing Elvis was about 8 years old! He was amazing.

Another dominant feature of Khao San road was the buckets of rum - accompanied with red bull, coke and speed.... We decided a better option would be to stop off at Club 7-11 to pick up some drink and then drink it back at the hotel. This is where I first got to know our guide for the next month - Jack. He is the sweetest guy. It has only been about five years since he left the jungle for the first time, where he was part of the Red Karen hill tribe and hunted monkeys. He told us that the first time he ever saw a white person he was terrified and ran away. Since then he has been in the military, worked in a guest house and now has worked as a guide for about a year and a half. During this time he has seemed to pick up all the English drinking games and has gained a deep appreciation for cheesy American love songs!